Is your skincare ruining your skin? Experts say this could be the problem – and it’s causing more harm than you think

It might be time to simplify your skincare routine, says our beauty guru Nathalie Eleni

Words: Nathalie Eleni | Shutterstock and various brands

In the age of acids, retinol and multi-step routines, many of us are over-treating our skin, causing barrier breakdown. A damaged skin barrier is now one of the most common causes of redness, dryness and breakouts. Often self-inflicted through incorrect product use, simply repairing it can be the key to restoring your natural glow.

The skin barrier, known as the stratum corneum, is the outermost layer. I often describe it to clients as a brick wall: skin cells are the bricks, while lipids, ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids act as the mortar holding everything together.

When this wall is strong and intact, it performs beautifully. It keeps hydration in, blocks environmental irritants out, regulates pH and prevents inflammation. Skin looks calm, smooth and reflective. But when the mortar begins to break down, tiny gaps form. Moisture escapes, irritants penetrate and inflammation increases.

Is your skin struggling?

Modern skincare is both empowering and overwhelming. We have transformative ingredients such as exfoliating acids, retinoids and vitamin C – but more isn’t always better.

One of the most common mistakes I see is product overuse: an exfoliating toner followed by a resurfacing serum and then a retinol. This can be effective for certain conditions, but together they can overwhelm the skin’s natural defences.

The reset: repair before you treat

The barrier is remarkably resilient when given the chance to recover. The first step is to do less. For 2-3 weeks, pause any exfoliating acids and retinoids and simplify your routine, returning to the essentials:

• Use a gentle, low-pH cleanser. Your skin should be mildly acidic and most soaps are alkaline. Use lukewarm water, never hot, and don’t over-cleanse.
• Apply a nourishing, barrier-supporting moisturiser with ceramides, panthenol, oat extract and Centella asiatica to soothe irritation, and low-dose niacinamide to support repair.

• Avoid acids, retinol and strong vitamin C until skin has fully stabilised. When in doubt, simplify. Calm skin always glows more beautifully than overworked skin.
• Use a silk pillowcase to help retain moisture in your skin and to cause less friction.

Only once your barrier has restored and your skin feels calmer should you gradually reintroduce active ingredients one at a time. Begin twice weekly, alternating “active nights” with recovery nights to help maintain results without tipping the balance again.

Fast-track your barrier recovery

• PRESS, DON’T RUB: Apply skincare using gentle pressing motions to avoid friction.
• DITCH HOT WATER: Heat strips natural oils and weakens the barrier. Use lukewarm water to wash your face. Also add moisturiser to damp skin to lock in hydration.
• PAUSE EXFOLIATION: A cleansing balm removed with a soft muslin cloth keeps skin clean without aggressively stripping it like an exfoliator would.
• ADD MOISTURE: Use a hydrating mist over serum throughout the day to replenish moisture.
• PROTECT DAILY. UV exposure delays repair. SPF is essential, even on cloudy days.

Skin SOS!

4 products to soothe your skin:

Avène Tolérance Extremely Gentle Cleanser

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Maskology Squalane Professional Facial Sheet Mask

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Skin Rocks by Caroline Hirons

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Hydropeptide Soothing Serum Redness Rescue & Relief

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For more, follow beauty guru Nathalie at instagram.com/nathalieeleni_