Head to the Austrian Alps for a hiking and spa break that will leave you feeling on top of the world, says travel writer Mary Comber.
Words: Mary Comber. Images: Krallerhof, Naturhotel Forsthofgut, and Mary’s own.
‘I never get tired of this view,’ sighs my hiking guide, Berrie, as we gaze in awe at a sweeping panorama of pine-clad mountains and glittering, snowy peaks. We’re reclining on a giant hammock, high in the Austrian alps, taking a breather from our morning hike to soak up the sparkling sunshine and majestic surrounds.
This spectacular spot, on the summit of Asitz in Saalfelden Leogang, is known as the Cinema of Nature and, as a warm, late-summer breeze caresses my skin, I have to agree the stunning scene is as thrilling as any movie blockbuster. Around us, hikers and mountain bikers explore the trails that criss-cross the steep, alpine pastures.
Far below in the valley lies our home for the night – five-star Krallerhof hotel and spa, its famous bathing lake glinting enticingly in the sun, ready to soothe our weary limbs when we return from the day’s adventures. Just 70 miles south of the historic city of Salzburg, Saalfelden Leogang is a beautiful, rural region of Austria where dramatic mountains, verdant valleys and warm hospitality create an idyllic setting for active holidays.
And after a quick 90-minute flight from London to Salzburg, it’s a scenic one-hour drive to Saalfelden Leogang (one of 16 regions of SalzburgerLand), through valleys dotted with sparkling lakes, waterfalls and forests, overlooked by towering, rocky mountains. As we approach our destination, the landscape takes on a fairytale feel, all pretty meadows and wooden chalets.
In one village, the traffic slows for a procession of caramel-coloured cows, decked out in vibrant, floral headdresses, garlands and bells, led by villagers in traditional Austrian outfits. ‘It’s called an Almabtrieb (cattle festival),’ says our driver. ‘When cows are brought down from the mountains at the end of summer, villagers throw a welcome-home party in their honour,’ he explains.
It’s a magical introduction to the region, as is the warm welcome we receive at Hotel Krallerhof, in the village of Leogang.
Eco spa
Stepping into Krallerhof’s lobby, it’s hard to believe this sleek, eco-friendly hotel was once a humble farmhouse that’s been lovingly transformed by four generations of the Altenberger family. We head straight for Hotel Krallerhof’s state-of-the-art, adults-only spa, Atmosphere.
Our jaws drop as we emerge from a mirrored, subterranean walkway into a vast, minimalist temple of wellness; all curved lines, sweeping floor-to-ceiling windows and glass walls that let the outdoors in so, whether you’re in the sauna, yoga studio or relaxation lounge, you’re immersed in nature and glorious mountain views.
A spiral staircase leads us up to an architecturally stunning café and bar with a sundeck that hugs Krallerhof’s incredible 5,500m2 natural swimming lake, sliced down the middle by a sleek, 50m infinity pool. After a bracing plunge in the lake, we slip into the warm pool for a few, blissful laps, gazing up at the mountains. Then we nip between the herbal sauna, ice grotto and womb-like blue grotto relaxation pool, putting aside our British reserve to go nude, as is the Austrian tradition!
Hiking paradise
The next morning, after a sound night’s sleep in my eco-friendly room (complete with soothing lemon-balm pillow), I take an early-morning dip as the sun peeks over the mountains and a gentle mist rises along the valley. Then, it’s a hearty breakfast of overnight oats, eggs, cheeses and breads from Krallerhof’s delicious buffet, fuelling up for our first day of hiking.
Saalfelden Leogang is one of the largest hiking regions in Austria, with 400km of well-marked trails for every fitness level. Krallerhof guests receive a free pass for the local Asitzbahn and Steinbergbahn gondolas that whizz you up to the mountain trails, and free, guided hiking tours. Today we’re doing an eco-hike to Europe’s lowest-lying glacier, Birnbachgletscher, 1,200m up in the Leoganger Steinberge mountain range.
‘Let’s hike!’ says our nature guide, Anna, as we begin trekking through ancient woodlands, learning about local flora and fauna along the way. Soon, the trail climbs, and we emerge onto a steep, rocky path, limestone mountains towering above us and a carpet of forest below. After a final, sweaty clamber, we make it to the mouth of the glacier and the nearby icy Birnbachloch spring where we soothe our hot feet.
Picking our way back down the mountain, as sure-footed locals bound past us like mountain goats, we’re grateful for the wooden hiking poles you can borrow from pole-sharing spots in the region. Descent completed, we tuck into alpine cheeses and fruit yoghurts at a local organic farm. Then we kick back at Krallerhof’s stunning family spa, Refugium, totally spoilt for choice with nine saunas, an indoor/outdoor pool and a huge menu of treatments, from high-tech, longevity therapies to holistic massages with mountain-herb oils.
Mountain fuel
Thoroughly restored, we head out to dinner at rustic farmhouse restaurant, Huwi’s Alm, high on a plateau above Leogang. After sunset cocktails in the courtyard, we move inside to the converted hayloft, for a cosy, candlelit meal. First, come huge, rustic bowls of salad and freshly baked garlic bread.
Then a heated, iron “hat” is placed on the table to barbecue strips of local steak for the meat eaters in our group. The rest of us devour smoked trout with horseradish cream and spinach gnocchi. Dessert is a huge pan of the Austrian pancake, kaiserschmarrn, plus cream pastries with local berry and apple sauces. Heaven!
SalzburgerLand’s alpine cuisine is rich in wild, foraged ingredients – chefs make use of local herbs, mushrooms, berries, blossoms, and even fir needles and tree bark. More than 60 per cent of agricultural land in Saalfelden Leogang is farmed organically and the food tastes incredibly fresh and wholesome.
Nature retreat
It’s hard to tear ourselves away from Krallerhof but our next destination, just along the valley in Leogang, soon makes up for it. Nestled in meadows at the foot of Asitz, five-star Naturhotel Forsthofgut looks, at first glance, like your quintessential Austrian hotel, adorned with window boxes of pink geraniums.
But stepping inside, we discover a super-cool mountain retreat with sumptuous, jewel-coloured sofas, wood-panelled walls adorned with deer antlers and modern art, and cosy snugs just begging you to curl up with a book. This fifth-generation, family-run hotel started life in 1917 as a farm and stables, and today, owners Christoph and Christina Schmuck have created a family-friendly hotel that manages to be elegant and sophisticated, yet warm and relaxed with a “nature first” philosophy.
My gorgeous guest room, all alpine-chic décor and luxurious fittings, offers everything I could need, from a yoga mat, hand weights and hiking backpack to a freshly baked Gugelhupf cake (similar to a bundt). Throwing open my balcony doors, I get a dazzling view of the resort. At the heart of Forsthofgut’s 30,000m2 garden is a shimmering bathing lagoon where guests are swimming, paddle boarding and sunbathing on little relaxation islands.
Alongside the pool is the beautiful Lake House and Japanese onsen pool, a floating Finnish sauna, and the waldSPA, which houses three floors of state-of-the-art saunas, relaxation lounges, pools and a gym. The timbered buildings blend perfectly with the surrounding pine forest and Leogang’s rocky mountains.
In winter, you can ski in and out of the hotel; it even has its own toboggan run! Strolling around the grounds, we discover tennis courts, a miniGUT children’s zoo, adventure playground and a state-of-the-art riding arena and stables where we admire Forsthofgut’s chestnut Haflinger horses with their glossy, flaxen manes.
You can book riding lessons, pony rides, horseback expeditions and alpaca trekking or even bring your own horse and book a stable! Next door is an incredible kid’s club with climbing wall, art studio and indoor petting area (where we coo over guinea pigs, Oreo and Cookie) that’s enough to give parents FOMO.
Forest spa
We begin our spa journey with a Japanese bathing ritual at the Lake House – inspired by the traditional bathhouses of Japan. Starting at the washing station, we scrub our bodies with an invigorating exfoliating soap and cloth, before taking a cleansing shower. Then, we pad outside to the onsen pool (in Japan, onsen are hot springs with bathing facilities) and ease ourselves into the steamy 42°C water, said to boost metabolism, improve sleep and ease muscle pain.
Afterwards, you can cocoon yourself in a fluffy robe and rest on a waterbed in the beautiful relaxation lounge. We brave a cold plunge in the swimming lake, then dash into the Finnish sauna, where floor-to-ceiling mountain views help distract us from the intense 90°C heat! If you’re feeling brave, you can swish birch branches across your body, to exfoliate your skin and stimulate circulation.
The birch contains tannins that soothe and soften the skin, plus relaxing essential oils. We complete our Japanese experience at the Lake House’s poolside restaurant, Mizumi, feasting on delicious sushi made from local fish. Later, at the waldSPA, I embark on the full thermal experience, working my way up, floor-by-floor, from an infra-red salt cabin (35°C) and forest-fog steam bath (60°C) to the Leoganger panorama sauna (90°C), offering stunning views.
At the second floor, I pause for a dip in the outdoor infinity sports pool, feeling like I’m floating through the mountains as I swim in the steamy water. Afterwards, I curl up with a herbal tea in the Scandi-style relaxation lounge, living out my log-cabin dreams as I gaze out over the forest. Children don’t have to miss out – there’s a forest-themed, family spa, complete with pools, water slides, water-spray guns and even a kid’s sauna!
Active days
We spend the next couple of days wallowing in the spa and exploring the mountains. We hike up to Forsthofgut’s pretty alpine hut, Thoman Alm, a three-bedroom, off-grid bolthole you can book for a complete digital detox. Sitting on the terrace, we take in the views and devour plates of local cheeses and meats, followed by fresh kaiserschmarrn, cooked over an open fire.
For another outing, we jump on the Asitzbahn gondola (just 200m from the hotel), and float our way up the mountain, watching kamikaze mountain bikers hurtle down the vertiginous trails of The Epic Bikepark Leogang, one of Europe’s most famous bike parks. Up at the Asitz mountain station, our guide, Berrie, leads us around the Mountain of Senses (as Asitz is fondly known) to the summit, where you can look out to the peaks of Zell am Zee and the German Alps. The trail is dotted with little wooden cabins, called TONspur Islands, where we recline on wooden beds, listening to classical music while watching the clouds drift by.
Healthy food
The food at Forsthofgut is a real treat, especially after a day in the mountains. We start our evenings at The Botanist Bar where mixologist, Tom, creates botanical concoctions, such as The Anti-Stress cocktail, a vodka-thyme infusion with CBD oil, from a menu developed in conjunction with the Saint Charles Pharmacy in Vienna.
Then, we dine at Forshofgut’s 1617 restaurant, which serves gourmet Alpine cuisine in a farmhouse-parlour style dining room. We feast on dishes including smoked trout choux pastry dumplings, porcini mushroom risotto, venison ragout and the best crêpes suzette I’ve ever tasted. On our final morning, yoga teacher, Ali, leads us up into the forest, to the hotel’s outdoor yoga platform, for a class with a view.
Breathing in the pine-scented, mountain air as I stretch my body and watch the sun rising over snowy peaks, I feel a sense of utter peace and harmony. The nature spa has worked its magic and I can’t wait to book in for a winter retreat.
TRIP NOTES
• Fly to Salzburg from London Gatwick with British Airways. Flights from £45 per person one-way. Upgrade to Club Europe for priority check-in and boarding, lounge access, increased baggage weight and meal service. Visit ba.com/gatwick.
• Hotel Krallerhof starts from €302 per person per night, half-board based on sharing a double room. Visit krallerhof.com.
• Naturhotel Forsthofgut starts from €480 per room per night based on two sharing, ¾-board, and includes daily childcare from 9am-9pm, activities, spas, riding stables, mini farm and zoo. Visit forsthofgut.at/en.
• For more on the region and all the activities it has to offer, visit saalfelden-leogang.com and salzburgerland.com.
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