PDRN is the skincare ingredient everyone’s obsessed with right now. Here’s what actually makes it work

Beauty’s latest buzzword is the ingredient PDRN, but what exactly is it, and why is it all over social media? Editor in Chief Katy Sunnassee investigates

Words: Katy Sunnassee | Images: Shutterstock and various brands

You may have read about polynucleotides – but now the same or similar technology has made its way into topical skincare, meaning you can get similar rejuvenating benefits without having to suffer the pain of injectables – or so the claims say.

‘There has been a huge buzz around PDRN due to the link to the “salmon sperm” facial, which is what polynucleotides got branded back when they came onto the scene,’ says Dr Hasaneen Al Janabi, founder and lead injector at Dr Hass Clinic (drhassclinic.co.uk).

Regenerative treatments and repair and recovery for our skin barrier have become very popular in the past few years, and PDRN is at the heart of this. Repair and regeneration have become the focus of skincare, with increased interest in improving cell turnover, which slows with age, as well as reinforcing the skin’s barrier – starting as early as possible.

‘PDRN, short for polydeoxyribonucleotide, is a biological molecule made up of short DNA fragments that in skincare is most commonly from purified salmon DNA, although there are some brands that use fermentation-based alternatives,’ says
Dr Al Janabi.

PDRN acts as a regenerative ingredient that interacts with cellular mechanisms involved in repair and homeostasis. It was originally used in aesthetic and medical dermatology for use in wound healing, but now is formulated into topical products like serums, creams, ampoules and toners. ‘PDRN is known to be beneficial for the skin for several reasons, but one of the most popular is that it supports cell repair and regeneration. It stimulates pathways involved in tissue repair and cellular renewal. It also improves the skin’s hydration through enhancing moisture retention and structural resilience, supporting the skin’s barrier function,’ says Dr Al Janabi, adding that the ingredient is believed to help improve elasticity and texture through influence on collagen pathways and fibroblast stimulation.

‘I would stress that PDRN on its own isn’t a miracle worker, but is beneficial for skin recovery, regeneration and barrier support when included in your routine.

‘PDRN is quickly expanding into a wide range of formulas and products, and is generally quite safe for those even with sensitive or acne-prone skin, making it a popular and versatile product for different skin types and concerns.’

Does it work in skincare?

‘PDRN serums work at a cellular level to support the skin’s natural repair processes,’ says Nina Prisk, a leading cosmetic nurse and expert in non-surgical aesthetics at Update Aesthetics (update-aesthetics.co.uk).

‘By promoting cell regeneration and hydration, they can help with skin rejuvenation, reduce the appearance of marks, and give the complexion a healthy glow. They can also help strengthen the skin’s barrier and improve elasticity over time. With consistent use, the skin can look smoother and appear more refreshed overall.’

But although the ingredient offers skin-boosting benefits, it’s worth remembering they won’t be as noticeable or extensive as an injectable.

‘Topical PDRN in skincare is a much newer concept,’ says award-winning aesthetic doctor, GP, global educator and founder of Skin Medical, Dr Sabika Karim (skinmedical.com). ‘The challenge is that PDRN molecules are relatively large, about 100 to a few thousand times too large to penetrate the stratum corneum, the skin’s outer protective barrier, which is specifically designed to prevent molecules of this size from penetrating deeply. As a result, topical PDRN is unlikely to reach the dermis or reproduce the same biological effects demonstrated with injectable treatments.’

But she’s also quick to add that that doesn’t mean PDRN skincare has no value. ‘Many formulations also contain humectants, antioxidants and barrier-supporting ingredients that help hydrate, strengthen and temporarily plump skin, and future delivery technologies may improve penetration,’ she says.

‘At present, though, injectable PDRN has by far the strongest clinical evidence for skin regeneration. Topical PDRN may offer supportive skincare benefits, but these are likely to be more modest. It’s a bit like watering a plant through its roots versus spraying water onto its leaves – both can be beneficial, but they don’t reach the same place or produce the same biological response.’

‘PDRN has a wealth of benefits, with studies suggesting it reduces inflammation and offers wound-healing, helping to reduce hyperpigmentation, increasing collagen synthesis and improving texture,’ concludes consultant dermatologist Dr Derrick Phillips (drderrickphillips.com). ‘It’s no wonder topical products containing PDRN are starting to become so popular. The most effective way to use PDRN is by combining it with microneedling in order to penetrate the skin for optimal results.’ If you need inspo for where to find PDRN we’ve sourced the latest buys…

Where to find PDRN…

Anua PDRN + Caffeine Rejuvenating Eye Cream

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Centellian24 360 Shot PDRN Active Serum

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Medicube PDRN Collagen Volume Multi Balm

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Mario Badescu Advanced Peptide PDRN Jelly Cream

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Rejuran Turnover Mask

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COSRX PDRN Exosome Skinplaning Glaze Mask

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