SPF pilling? Your sunscreen is failing you. Follow this genius trick to smooth, pill-free protection

Find out how to get your SPF to apply smoothly and stop pilling once and for all!

Words: Katy Sunnassee & Angela Kennedy | Images: Shutterstock

How to apply sunscreen without pilling

If you’ve ever applied an expensive new sunscreen or moisturiser only to find your face is covered with tiny flaky flecks of white – you’ve been pilled! In skincare terms, the very annoying pilling effect is when a product doesn’t penetrate your skin properly and leaves a crumbly residue, making it impossible to apply foundation smoothly over the top. ‘Skin pilling is when you apply a topical product such as a serum or moisturiser to the skin and it isn’t being absorbed, but instead collects on the surface, resembling dead skin cells or debris that looks like the bits leftover when you’ve erased something with a rubber,’ says Kimberley Medd, clinic lead at online skincare store Face The Future (facethefuture.co.uk).

So, why on earth does this happen? ‘It can be a sign of using skincare products together that have a different base, such as silicone and water, which don’t mix together. Gel formulas can also be another key cause,’ adds Kimberley.

Sunscreen is one of the biggest culprits for skincare pilling – and it’s actually more serious an issue than it might sound at first. That’s because if you find your foundation doesn’t go on smoothly over sunscreen, you might be tempted to skip using sunscreen altogether – which is a very bad idea. Melanoma skin cancer is the fifth most common cancer for women in the UK, with around 8,400 new cases every year, according to Cancer Research UK. Yet 86 per cent of those cases are preventable – and using good quality sunscreen is one way to reduce UV exposure, which lowers your risk of skin cancer.

Ask the Experts: Should I still use a cream with SPF during winter?

But why does sunscreen in particular often pill? ‘It’s the mixture of ingredients and textures in both your skincare and your SPF. So, keeping the texture the same throughout can help with application and prevent pilling. Silicone, talc, mica, iron oxide and carbomer can contribute to pilling. But if you really want to hold on to an SPF you love or have just bought but it’s causing pilling, try changing the way you apply it. For example, tap it on instead of rubbing it into skin, which may make a difference,’ says Kimberley.

Then, there’s the question of whether a chemical or mineral sun screen formula is better for avoiding pilling? ‘Chemical formulas are usually easier for the skin to absorb, whereas mineral SPFs and ingredients with a silicone base can sit on the skin. If a sunscreen is applied on top of an oil or gel-based product, this can also increase the likelihood of SPF pilling. If you have dry skin, you may be more likely to experience skin pilling when coming into contact with rich, creamy SPF/skincare formulas. So, finding the right SPF for your skin type is the key to preventing pilling,’ advises Kimberley.

When choosing a sunscreen, there are definitely certain ingredients to look out for to ensure your sun protection goes on smoothly. ‘Common culprits for pilling include silicones, certain thickening agents or high levels of emollients. These ingredients can create a slippery or greasy surface that interferes with the adhesion of makeup, leading to pilling,’ says skin expert, Justine Masters (justinemasters.london). ‘Look for formulations that are lightweight and fast-absorbing. Avoid silicones such as dimethicone and high concentrations of emollients or thickeners. Start with the lightest and thinnest skincare products first, usually serums, then apply your moisturiser, then sunscreen. Let each layer dry fully before applying the next product. But if you are using a chemical sunscreen, this needs to go on before your moisturiser, as it needs to get absorbed into the skin,’ adds Justine.

Follow these instructions and you should have a smooth surface for your sun protection so you can get outdoors and enjoy the sunshine.

3 to try…

Our pick of silicone-free sunscreens should help avoid the pilling.

UltraSun Face SPF50+

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SOS SPF 50 Sun Cream

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Altruist Primer SPF50

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